![]() 07/31/2015 at 13:43 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Since my beloved Sierra has chosen not to produce a spark, I’ve been borrowing my old car, which has belonged to my mother for about four years now. The car in question is a 1997 BMW 740iL, and as much as I love it, i now get to “enjoy” its quirks yet again. And by quirks, I mean what goes wrong when I drive it:
Sunroof seal came loose, allowing it to slide back a tenth of an inch before deciding “No.”
ABS light and ASC light came on, so if I slam on the brakes I peel rubber off a gorgeous set of Yokohamas.
Rear passenger window makes ungodly noises when moved, indicating the regulator is going to die.
Worst of all, the blower motor comes on when it feels like it. In 100+ degree Texas heat, which is about 108 heat index.
I have a half hour drive in freeway traffic to meet a lady for coffee, so there is no doubt I will arrive in a less presentable fashion than I intended. Blue jeans are nice when you’re being refrigerated, but not when you’re in a sauna.
I want my truck back, as much as I love having 282 horsepower and a slush box that gives me all the speed I want. I miss my manual windows, my veritable freezer unit, my rough ride and annoyingly slow 4.3L V6.
I want my damned truck back. Now I have to figure out: PCM or ICM?
![]() 07/31/2015 at 13:51 |
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1. Sunroof seal is available and not hard to do.
2.ABS ASC means you need a wheel speed sensor. If you had the trifecta (abs, brake, and asc on) you would have needed a new abs module. Only way to scan for defective sensor is with inpa/DIS.
3. Regulators suck
4. Blower motor involves entire disassembly of the dash.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 14:03 |
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Mmm side exits
What’s wrong with it?
![]() 07/31/2015 at 14:08 |
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Best way of fixing a BMW
![]() 07/31/2015 at 14:20 |
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I had spark go on a 4.3 and it was part of the ICM, but not the module itself. When moisture gets into the distributor, rust can affect the magnetic stator that shows the ICM that the engine is turning, and gets it to send the initial spark. Replacing the ICM won’t fix a bad stator, and the ICM is a 30 dollar part anyways, so you should try and find a junkyard distributor to swap in.
The PCM rarely goes bad, and you might be able to diagnose it as the ICM by using starting fluid/carb cleaner while cranking. Once the engine goes past a certain rpm, it will send spark regardless of the signal from the ICM, and should run if that is your problem.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 14:26 |
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“Rear passenger makes ungodly noises when moved”
![]() 07/31/2015 at 14:35 |
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“Rear passenger makes ungodly noises when moved”
Hit them harder with a wrench. Noises will eventually cease, replaced by mild smell.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 15:08 |
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1) it’s recently been replaced. I think the adhesive just decided to be a jerk. J-B weld may be an option.
2) Thank you. I can handle that. The module, well... my mom would lose her mind.
3) Yes, they do. Expensive and a pain.
4) So I’ve seen on e38.org. I will need whiskey for that job.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 15:10 |
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Turns over with gusto, no fire from the coil. Replaced coil, wire, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor. Still not working. Next test is signal wires from ICM and PCM.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 15:10 |
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He’s sick, B. He’s sick.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 15:11 |
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I can’t help that I Uber for zombies. It’s better money than working the corner, for me at least...
![]() 07/31/2015 at 15:12 |
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http://oppositelock.kinja.com/i-had-spark-go…
![]() 07/31/2015 at 15:26 |
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I endorse the following product for the rubber seal.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08031-Fast-…
I save the JB weld for high temp applications, the 3M is easier to work with.
![]() 07/31/2015 at 17:29 |
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It’s not sending spark from the coil. We tried starting fluid before with no success.
Are you suggesting I replace the distributor?
![]() 08/01/2015 at 00:26 |
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Sorry, I spoke too soon, I was working on an older model where the ICM is mounted inside the distributor. It works the same as your truck, but I think you have the ICM mounted by the coil? Anyways, it is either your pick-up coil or ICM that is toast. Take off your cap and rotor and you will see a sensor (your pick up coil) that a metal ring (the stator/reluctor, on the end of the shaft) spins through like here:
If the stator is rusty or cracked, it will have to be replaced (you might not be able to buy this separately). If not, buy a new pick up coil, and a new ICM, and try both of them out. Most stores will let you bring back the part you didn’t use.
![]() 08/01/2015 at 08:07 |
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I got lucky. On the way home, I picked up an ICM with more than a little resignation. I went home, connected the new one, and the truck fired right up. Amazing what an $80 part can do to a truck.
Thank you for taking the time to help me.
![]() 08/01/2015 at 11:36 |
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Glad to hear it! You basically had the problem figured out already haha.